Father Earth Bauer braves the bridge traffic to find "techniques are flawless" at Daniel Patterson's five-week old Oakland restaurant Plum. Here bivalves are good. Actually they're "Great clams." But still "vegetables are the forte" and "Patterson's dashi ($13) is the foie gras of broth." Though some animal dishes were "marginally less satisfying" and the dessert list doesn't really seem thought out; Bauer plays nice, giving three stars for food and the big three overall. [SFGate]
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