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El Bulligeddon

Grant Achatz pens a must-read account of his first encounter with El Bulli: "I calmly laid my spoon down on the edge of the bowl after one bite–astonished. What the hell is going on back there, I thought. I know cooking, but this is the stuff of magic." Perhaps even more notable are the Chicago chef's reflections on what Adria meant—and means—to the cooking profession as "the modern Escoffier." [NYT via Eater National]