Lafitte Gets a 1.5 Star Flogging From Cap'n Bauer

Cap'n Bauer pillaged Russel Jackson's Lafitte on the Embarcadero for his Sunday review. And it turns out the pirate's nightly changing "menus of logic" may not be the best way to realize his "Feed the People" tagline: "...the unevenness of many courses shows the inherent difficulties in totally changing a menu each day; there are no dress rehearsals. Lafitte is more like improvisational theater. Diners have to trust the innate talent of the chef and realize they never really know exactly what's going to be on the plate." Despite some pleasant dishes and warm snickerdoodles, a "pea disaster" and "all-over-the-board" portion sizes mean 1.5 stars overall for the "Dissident Chef."[SFGate]

Patty Untz explains similar inconsistencies in last week's report of the International Culinary School's student-run restaurant: "Bistro 10UN guinea pigs, the customers, get a satisfying, fresh, mostly tasty meal with some technical flaws, especially in texture and temperature. Seasoning and presentation get an A, and the menu writing, I thought, was downright professional, even if the students couldn’t quite execute all their good ideas." [Examiner]

And Josh Sens' June review reveals Oakland's Caribbean-inspired Hibiscus isn't perfect either: "Bold and sometimes bewildering, but never boring, Hibiscus is not just another braised pork–and-burger bistro. Even when it missteps, it stands out as a lively, personal restaurant and an energetic portal into the chef’s past...[Sarah] Kirnon’s approach works—except when it doesn’t. " [San Francisco]

[Photo: Chron]