When Katharine Zacher and Ryan Ostler started smoking straight-up Southern style BBQ at Broken Record, it was well-received to say the least. So we were a bit sad when they left their more recent post at a pop-up restaurant inside Bruno's and then double sad when SFoodie told us their proposed Bar BQ Tartine Dinner at Bar Tartine -- where Zacher has been pastry chef since July 4th -- was delayed. But what Ostler told us in the middle of his latest beef tongue pastrami project this morning has us girding for something special to come. We'll just have to wait a few weeks.
Zacher and Ostler are currently nailing down the details with Bar Tartine executive chef Chris Kronner on regularly occurring pop-up BBQ-themed dinners to take place on Monday nights when the restaurant is normally closed. And they're exploring a range of options, starting with an order-by-the pound family-style night wherein several smokers will be cooking up various cuts, and sides like collard greens, spuds and buckets of beer (yes, that's a side) will be served at the center of the table. On alternate Mondays, the threesome will tap into the adventurous tastes of Bar Tartine's regular clientele with "more formal" 7-course progressive dinners using smoke applications along with sous vide, foams and such. "So we can exercise both sides of the brain," says Ostler. Zacher's offerings, for example, will range from down-home style pecan pies at the first style of dinner to esoteric riffs with foams and gels at the latter. They'll also be taking advantage of GM/sommelier Alex Fox's talents to pair courses with beer and wine. Ostler adds, "We'll be doing a lot of the things we wanted to do at Bruno's, but couldn't." To which we add: "Unleash the smokers." [Update: It appears schedules were crossed somewhere along the way, as Hapa Ramen will be at Bar Tartine on Monday nights in September. Chris Kronner tells us Ostler and Zacher will now start the BBQ madness at Bar Tartine in October.]
· When The Record Skips [~ ESF ~]
· EaterWire: Bruno's Food Service To End [~ ESF ~]
· Bruno's Chefs Reunite For Bar BQ Tartine Dinners [SFoodie]
Ryan Ostler And Katharine Zacher. [Photo: SF Weekly/Jen Siska]