This week, the Kauff Trough finds a new love in Cotogna, a "beautifully realized" restaurant "translating everything that is so refined about Quince into classic California simplicity." He seems to enjoy most of the menu, especially "pasta that rewarded the kind of quiet concentration we normally reserve for nigiri or single-estate chocolate." And the only somewhat negative words bubble up around the pizzas which "don't make much of an impression." The review ends on a well-tuned high note: "Quince may demonstrate the flourish of Italian cuisine, but Cotogna honors its heart." [SF Weekly]
Reidinger reviews Moya in SoMa, where the restaurant may be the sole Ethiopian cuisine rep. Here "the look is big-city modern" and the "kitchen is half out in the open" -- both surprising features for a joint of this ilk. As far as food goes, Dinger wants to "make a savory bûche de Noël" out of the injera, and he "found the tingling afterglow of the berberé to be a distinct pleasure." All in all, the act of eating sans utensils -- or the "atavistic satisfaction of tearing something up and then eating it" -- "reminds us of how close to being uncivilized we are, really, even in such civilized surroundings." And we're assuming Reidinger likes this quite a bit. [SFBG]
The Elsewhere: The lone Thursday Datebook review is of Modern China Cafe in Walnut Creek: 1.5 stars for food, 2 overall; the Marin IJ thinks Charlie Hong Kong is a hit, Metro SV likes SliderBar Cafe even though it's guilt-free, EBX warms up with Himalayan fare at Mount Everest in Berkeley, The Merc isn't too keen on Vesu in Walnut Creek, Bargain Bite eats Amici's pizza at Third Avenue Sports Bar and Grill in San Mateo and last but most def not least, Bar Bites thinks the egg and truffle bruschetta at Bar Bambino is a killer app.
Cotogna. [Photo: Michelin f./Flickr via SFoodie]