Thinking Cap Mike hits up Isa since chef-owner Luke Sung sold it, and is perplexed by several things. To begin with Sung is still mentioned on the website, and some of his signature dishes are still on the menu. Sadly, "they lacked the precision and careful balance that he brought to each combination in the early years of the restaurant." Earning points back is the tiny half chicken and upgraded service. The end result? Two stars. [Chron]
The Kauffinator "step[s] out into a world of 60-year-olds, skyscrapers, and mist" to try Leatherneck Steakhouse at the top of the Marines' Memorial Club. Here, the "Superman view of the Financial District and beyond" makes up for what's lacking in decor. Although the joint "may be the lowest-profile of this city's steakhouses," the chefs "give a damn about the food they're putting out." There's a "good char" on the pork chop, and the wagyu flatiron steak was cooked so it tasted "as if the animal had been raised on croissants and creamed corn." Crab cakes are "just fine," and "service can be quirky," but "the food continually surprises," and Kauff eats "far too much of it for comfort." [SF Weekly]
The Elsewhere: The Marin IJ notices that there's still sustainable seafood at Fish in Sausalito, EBX thinks Local Cafe lives up to its name in Oakland, and the Merc has 2.5 stars for the Joshu-ya redo.