The Untermagnificent gets all excited to eat sheep at Oakland's Oliveto, and the "tender" chop doesn't let her down: "cut in-house from a 2-year-old animal raised on Mendocino’s Magruder Ranch, [it] had red, juicy flesh and vivacious if mild flavor delivering the carnal satisfaction of a juicy steak, without the fat." She also appreciates the whole grain flours the restaurant has developed with farmers, showing up in "the best whole wheat pasta I’ve reluctantly tried," and an unparalleled housemade white pappardelle in smoky rabbit ragu." In closing, Untz mentions that if your wallet can't handle the upstairs dining room's "luxurious and expensive experience," "in the charming cafe downstairs...you can taste much of Oliveto’s larder in casual dishes for much less." [Examiner]
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