Bauer comes out of his shell a little at Gigi Fiorucci's North Beach seafood spot Sotto Mare. Although there's no dessert, no potatoes and the pastas are "uneven," "most other [cioppino] versions fail when compared with what's offered" here. Other standouts include Rex sole "with the skin so crisply seared it almost tastes like fried chicken," and the crab Louis "should please anyone who has fond memories of this dish." With all the tchotchkes inside, "It's amazing when you learn that the restaurant has been here for only about four years...but it's also a place that embodies what has made North Beach a favorite destination for more than a century." 2 stars. [Chron]
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