Let's kick off this Week in Reviews with The Untermagnificent, discovering the Deli Board (1058 Folsom St.) where owner Adam Mesnick "elicits almost weeping gratitude from his clientele." Although she relishes every last bite, the Gold-N-Berg-N-Stein sandwich takes the cake: "corned beef, pastrami, Kosher salami, Muenster cheese, house slaw, house Thousand Island on a sweet French roll — practically ruined me for any other sandwich. It sets the bar. Soft, salty, buttery, piquant and creamy, this sandwich transcends its components to become a higher food, some kind of manna." [Examiner]
The Big Kauff goes into The Summit (780 Valencia St.) to eat chef Eddie Lau's seven-course, $75 prix fixe Sunday dinner, made entirely from one induction burner and one convection oven. "Lau's intuition and thoughtfulness come through in every dish, but his lack of significant cooking experience, combined with the rudimentary kitchen he's working with, come through, too." The star course is Lau's "soup dumpling of sorts," wherein "the surprise of... [a] gush of liquid is a technical marvel." Overall, "it's a marvelous science experiment." [SF Weekly]
THE ELSEWHERE: Marin IJ feels transported by Tavola Italian Kitchen in the Hamilton Marketplace, Diablo experiences the real, authentic flavors of Veneto, Italy at Ottavio in Walnut Creek, and Jeese Hirsch of the EBX loves the jerk chicken at permament Jamaican pop-up Kingston 11 within Berkeley's Guerilla Café.