The Untermagnificent is thrilled to bits about Osteria Coppa: "a gift to San Mateo and worth a trip from The City." Chef Chanan Kamen is the cousin of Michael Tusk; and his restaurant sounds like the Peninsula version of Cotogna. Unterman flips for the pasta: its "noodles that have such springy, teasing yet satiny texture, they enthrall the mouth;" fritto misto is "delicately fried;" pizza is "exemplary;" mains "show as much technique as the heartthrob pasta;" and desserts "mandatory, though you may want to shoot yourself afterwards." After stuffing herself nearly to death, Unterman adds, "Osteria Coppa is everything an eater hopes for in a restaurant. No pretense. No attitude. Just knock-down, great food that is accessible and rewarding for everyone at suburban, not city, prices." So, break out the Zipcar?
Osteria Coppa, San Mateo [Photo: Zagat]