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Week in Reviews

Cotogna%20Pasta.jpgJosh Sens begins his review of Cotogna with a note about how tough it is to nab a reservation: "If you show up at 5:30, like a Florida retiree, you’ve got an outside chance of nabbing a seat." Sens realizes the Cotogna buzz sets it up for a challenge, yet "the kitchen lets components stand on their own merits" in a way that "makes you wonder why you’d ever eat any other way." Warm baked ricotta, pea sformato and rabbit ragu are among the winners, but "Cotogna also reveals the pitfalls of restraint." There is lackluster sausage pizza and desserts are meh. Sens will go back expecting "a smart, seasonal menu stocked with mostly delicious dishes along with the rare one or two that call for something more." 2.5 stars [SF Mag]


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