The Untermagnificent assesses the newly nipped and tucked Acquerello; and "the 21-year-old bastion of refined northern Italian food and wine...feels complete now." She trusts in the "ambitious educational wine program" from 25-year-old Michael Mina alum Gianpaolo Paterlini, the potato gnocchi proves "a triumph of long cooking and melding;" the duck breast, "a tour de force;" the cheese cart is "expertly curated" and "the restaurant has thought of everything." [Examiner]
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