The Untermarvelous feels at home at Greg Dunmore's Nojo in Hayes Valley. "His simple, direct, big-flavored Japanese cooking radiates freshness and goodness — Japanese with Midwestern values." The food is pleasing, from "delicately scented" tofu to "voluptuos" chawanmushi to "thoughtfully selected" drinks. She ends the gush-fesh, aiming at the the staff, who know "everything about making us, the customers, happy." [Examiner]
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