The Bauer Oracle trips to the new version of Mill Valley's historic El Paseo, reminagined by Tyler Florence and buddy Sammy Hagar. A lot of money was put into making the setting "magical," but the menu ranges from great ("suberb" chicken fried steak and mushroom risotto that's "one of the best I've had in a restaurant") to not-so-much ("dry and mealy" roast chicken and chocolate souffle that's "on the dense side"). As often happens in Marin, "Service is the weakest link," ranging from "used-car salesman" to "tentative from inexperience." Bauer's shake-out? "El Paseo has a winning spirit, and like a good steak, I suspect it will get even better with age." 2.5 stars. [Chron]
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