The Untermarvelous is out again with her elegant Shanghai friends at Golden Gate Dim Sum on Clement Street. They guide her through a menu of "straight-ahead Guangdong Cantonese food:" boneless stir-fried pork neck, "creamy gingko nuts, tofu skin, curls of clean pork stomach," "delciate turnip cakes," and such. Unterman overlooks "gruff, non-ingratiating service," that "seems like a Mao-era holdover," to find a new member for her "top comfort food list." She suggests dim sum for newbies, "but the best dinner finds demand Chinese literacy." [Examiner]
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