News came last month that long-time Chez Panisse co-chef David Tanis was leaving his hallowed chef post to pen a column for the New York Times. Said column, City Kitchen, will be all about cooking in "less-than-well-equipped kitchen[s]" in cities like the ones Tanis lives in: New York, San Francisco and Paris. The first installation drops today. And it's all about beans. Literally, five or so paragraphs devoted to bean recipes written out in conversational style.
It certainly walks the line between aspirational and instructional with steps like: "First, make thin ribbons of raw asparagus, fennel and radish. Then make a lemony, anchovy-inflected vinaigrette." Which prompts the question, are the bustling cities of the world ready to break out the "anchovy-inflected vinaigrette" en masse? Only time will tell.