Bauer Dishes On Locanda, Unterman Loves Broken Record

Signore Bauer's thoughts on Delfina's new baby sister Locanda are out. He finds Anthony Strong's menu "rustic and well executed," the offal offerings "enticing," but desserts are "less impressive" than those at Delfina. The overall message: "[It] doesn't quite come up to the level of Delfina. Yet when the buzz dies down, Locanda will still be a winner." 2.5 stars. [Chron]

The Untermagnanimous treks to Excelsior to find "some of the most elegant and deeply satisfying American food in town" at Broken Record. Cooks Shane Lavalley and James Moisey "are prodigies of bar food" and after digging into revelatory pork fries, a "succulent" hamburger and "perfectly balanced" Texas toast, she proclaims "though I find the place miserably uncomfortable, I love their food so much I forget about it." [Examiner]