Bauer's review of the new Piccino came out on Sunday. Now Madame Unterman's thoughts on the subject are prime for the reading. She finds the space "airy" amid the "Hells Angels headquarters, dive bars and tire shops" of the Dogpatch. "Clarity defines the sensibility" of the food. "Shared little dishes meant to accompany food-centric wines" begin her meal, then she folds up the pizza to eat it like a sandwich. Wrapping things up, a "coffee ice cream in a still-warm housemade cone" from the "groovy," nearby Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous might be the thing that makes the Dogpatch experience worth the trip across town. [Examiner]
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