Bauer Boots is in Oakland, trying out Commis chef-owner James Syhabout's new casual Southeast Asia-influenced spinoff Hawker Fare. He says the caliber of rice in the rice bowls "makes the dishes come alive," but two dishes really stand out: "moist and tender" poached chicken and "refined," "fragrant" vadouvan tofu. The only disappointments are "thick as wallpaper paste" rice congee and a rice pudding dessert special he gets one night. Servers with a "pleasant attitude" round out "a restaurant that's both true to the spirit of Asian cuisine and takes license to make it better. It's a winning combination." 2.5 stars. [Chron]
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