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Kauffman orders off the wall on his next stop in Chinatown, (instead of having his friend order for him) and discovers an oyster omelet to be a possible precursor to Hangtown Fry. Though not raving about anything, he digs into a hotpot of braised eggplant and prawns and fish, braised in soy and ginger, and proclaims "made with no pretense, the dishes were well balanced, a pleasure to eat." Warning that while "Capital Restaurant won't impress the stargivers with ethereal steamed lobster or $50 braised abalone with luxe mushrooms" ultimately he says "It's mom food, Wednesday night food." [SF Weekly]
Reidinger goes for a five year check up at Perbacco and after detailing his discovery of meat at every turn from the salads to the pastas he seems to appreciate the short ribs best. Go figure. He says the desserts reflect "a surprisingly friendly pricing scheme" each priced at $8 with the exception of the sorbets and biscotti. [SF Bay Guardian]
The Elsewhere:GraceAnn Walden in her Yummy Report Newsletter confesses a love for Cafe Gratitude. We did not see this coming. She notes that the the burgeoning chain is largely ignored by the mainline critics (surely she means Anton Ego) and reports that the Los Angeles outlet rakes in 12k a day and is filled with celebrities. Add to the menu "I am flabbergasted." [Yummy Report]