Unterman Deems Txoko A "Whimsical, Bat Cave of a Place"

This week, Patty U. reviews North Beach's new Txoko, the Basque restaurant that took over the former Enrico's space. Having just returned from a visit to Basque city, San Sebastian, she was particularly curious about Txoko. Unterman calls chef Ian Begg's cooking style "refined and complex." She deems "portions and prices small", but says "miniature dishes are incredible values". Patty waxes eloquent about liver and onions (a foie gras starter), calling it "a sumptuous creation", and grilled quail with a creamy sauce that is "haunting." Despite noting that some of Begg's ideas "don't quite pan out" (she doesn't say which), in the end, she calls Txoko "an eccentric, whimsical, bat cave of a place with no frills except for some outrageously lush fancy cooking." [Examiner]