Kauff Goes Gaga For Piccino (But Not the Pizzas), Bauer Still Appreciates Town's End, and More

The first thing the Continuous Kauff notices at Piccino is that the restaurant, and the people in it, are undeniably photogenic. He goes to say he doesn't think you should center your meal on pizza. Instead, "order the magnificent Roman-style semolina gnocchi ($15)," or "parsley-flecked polpette" or halibut crudo: "ghostly triangles of translucent fish flecked with torn mint, curls of red chile with a fruity and considerable heat, and triangles of pale pink watermelon." And on the matter of his server: "Did I mention that she was beautiful, too?" [SF Weekly]

Sir Bauer has two stars for David and Mary Sperber's Town's End, now 20 years after opening. He loves that the "prices are a good deal." But "plates look like something an average cook might prepare at home," "main courses [are] not nearly as satisfying as what precedes them," he "expected the desserts (all $6) to be better," and "the interior also looks as if it could use a little sprucing up." In the end, though, there's no denying "the place has carved out a spot as a good traditional breakfast, brunch and lunch stop." [Chron]

The Untermagical goes for a bite at 58-year-old Russian cafe Cinderella, since it "has a completely new look and a pared-down menu" (as of two years ago). She calls out the marinated fish, pelmeni (Russian boiled dumplings), vareniki (another boiled dumpling), stuffed cabbage, and "all of the soups" as "fave"s. So now you know "when the urge for Russian soul food hits," (and doesn't it, always?), "the reconfigured, more efficient Cinderella is even better than the old one." [Examiner]