Three-Martini Bauer is really into the martinis at Harris' steak house, although he notices a wide range of drinking styles at the tables around him: from "Diet Coke and the like" to "a few $100-plus bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon." He finds the service "efficient, if a little rote," the food "consistently predictable" and his New York steak superb: "From the first, rich bite, it was apparent that care was taken in selecting, aging and grilling the meat." 2.5 stars [Chron]
El Kauff joins the "90 percent white" crowd at Lers Ros' new Hayes Valley outpost to find "much about the new Lers Ros is identical to the old one [in the Tenderloin]." Here chef-owner Tom Silargorn implements a wine menu that "reads as if it belongs up the street at Bar Jules" and "more attractive" decor to introduce his "true Thai taste" to a new audience. There are inevitable duds, but "everything else on the table — especially chosen from the salads, the specials page, or the 'Original Thai Style' section of the menu — is so good I wonder why I eat anywhere else." [SF Weekly]
The Guardian's Virginia Miller has three new places she deems "worth adding to your go-to list." First is North Beach's newish pop-up Chubby Noodle, serving "better than good" red miso, "don't miss" buttermilk fried chicken and "my other favorite" spicy garlic noodles. Over in Pac Heights, Roosetertail offers "friendly staff," "juicy" dark meat, and "soulful sides...like brisket baked beans or brussels sprouts with bacon." Then there's a comparison between the defunct Ti Couz and FiDi's new Galette 88: "There's not quite the same depth of buckwheat earthiness. The French galettes...are even thinner, still crisp, a little less flavorful, but nonetheless worthwhile." [SFBG]
THE ELSEWHERE: EBX joins the cocktail sophisticates at Oakland's new Plum Bar and Make Westing, Marin IJ finds "something of a scene" at the new Super Duper in Mill Valley and The Merc gets a piece of Gordon Ramsay at Fremont's revamped Spin a Yarn.
Harris' steak house. [Photo: TopRestaurants]