Although Bauer Britches isn't always smitten with the menu execution at Abbot's Cellar, this shrine to beer and food from Nate Cutler and Christian Albertson is "the most ambitious and impressive project" he's seen in a while. The design is "integrated and exciting," service is on, and the bone marrow and sour cream cheesecake are outstanding. The only drawbacks seem to be inconsistent portion sizes and some dishes—like the bouillabaisse and parsnip cake—that don't muster up to their descriptions. Pullquote follows:
"Despite some of these flaws, the combinations and presentations are interesting. Yellow Finn potato gnocchi ($15) are lined up on a rectangular plate with braised rabbit, carrots and snap peas; Delicata squash soup ($9) is topped with whipped goat cheese and crisp shallots; and a pork chop is accompanied by caraway spaetzle ($25) and peaches...Even though the restaurant's ambition at times exceeds its skill set, this Mission District place signals the coming of age of craft brews. The Abbot's Cellar experience is to beer what Domaine de la Romanee Conti is to wine."