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From his perch at Rasselas, Jesse Hirsch stares at the "eight hours" wait at State Bird Provisions, feeling he's found a "fine alternative for dinner." Forget the "distracted, inattentive server," here "Africanized bar food" sings with "Flavors of the Deep South and Ethiopia," as in catfish: "with sweet honey and ginger suffusing every morsel." Overall "you could do much worse" with a "cozy winter date spot." Just skip the fish sliders please. [Examiner]