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Week in Reviews

Jesse Hirsch is hiding away again at The Basque Cultural Center, "where only the sourest scenester wouldn't appreciate its warmth or lack of pretense." He eats "competent, indistinct and hearty" foods in shades of "beige" and "tan": "juicy" escargots, "mild" pâté de campagne, and "uniformly tender" meats. And the "sizzler" deal makes it even better: "two entrees, soup, salad and dessert for around $20." [Examiner]