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Bauer Drops A Deuce on Parallel 37 at the Ritz-Carlton

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Photo: Molly DeCoudreaux

As you know, The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton morphed into Parallel 37 in December, and the journey continues today with a zinger of a Bauer review in Sunday's paper, and a deflating 2 stars, at that. Before the demolition, Bauer demoted The Dining Room at the Ritz to 2.5 stars. Now he's clear that executive chef Ron Siegel "is a mega-talent," but he doesn't think the restaurant as a whole has made a successful transition to a more casual offering. On the million dollar transformation: "I'm afraid it looks more like the Marriott than the Ritz." Ouch. [Sidenote: Take a look at the Eater Inside on this one to see if you agree.] Then another Bauer hot button: noise. "In an attempt to create a lively buzz, management has created a roar...on the first visit we practically gave up talking."

As far as the menu goes, one dish, the slow-roasted pork with perfectly cooked beans, earns a "great." But
"the portion size of some dishes feels as if he's still producing an eight-course tasting menu rather than an a la carte menu where most people will have only a couple of courses." The Ritz kept all the servers from The Dining Room, and they haven't fully transitioned (yet?) either: "Timing on just about all visits was off, and there was almost a studied casualness that came across as slightly awkward." In summary, reluctant praise: "It might be fine if you're from out of town, tired and want a competent - no, make that a pretty good - meal. But when you see the check, you may begin to question the worth of the experience."

Anyone out there have a different opinion? Tell all in the comments.

· Parallel 37 review: Ritz-Carlton's casual turn, with fancy prices [Chron]
· All Parallel 37 Coverage [~ ESF ~]
· All The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Coverage [~ ESF ~]

Parallel 37

600 Stockton St, San Francisco, CA