Suburbuia Buaer files an update of the six-year-old Presidio Social Club, where he likes the "history and allure," but thinks "it's never lived up to its potential." With new chef Wes Shaw joining Ray Tang in the kitchen, "portions have diminished while presentations have become more precise." Some things are worse (liver and onions, grilled artichokes), others have improved (roasted chicken), and desserts are still strong: "So while there were glimmers of what the restaurant could become, it still feels as if the kitchen hasn't quite figured out which way to go." 2 stars. [Chron]
Chef Anthony Myint tells Hirschter "Most people who come to Mission Bowling [Club] don’t read Eater SF and all that,” and there's a tug-of-war at play: "Myint needs pub staples to reel in the nonfoodie set, but he yearns to set the bar higher." High points like the vegan burger, sausage corn dog, and bean salad are balanced by low: beef jerky, sturgeon. The verdict? "With a little sharpening of focus, I can see Mission Bowling Club living up to its potential: a bowling alley with damn fine food." [Examiner]
Miller is up to her neck in meat dishes. At Prather Ranch's American Eatery, "I'm particularly smitten with the maple-smoked ham and cheese biscuit ($8)." And it's all oxtail at O3: "It's fall-apart tender braised oxtail...calls out to me." And "at a recent lunch I indulged in an oxtail grilled cheese sandwich on thick, rustic slabs of bread, sweetly glorified with five spice raisin jam...Bring it on." Finally, it's all about the meatloaf at Presidio Social Club: "a seemingly bigger slice...Like mom would make if mom was a gourmand, the juicy, meaty loaf rests atop a sea of mashed potatoes, crowned with slivered carrots and fried shallots for a pseudo-light finish." [SFBG]
THE ELSEWHERE: The Chron's second Datebook review has—wait for it—two stars for Santorini in Danville, The Merc gets to revisit Incanto, Marin IJ has Cal-Persian at Kababbq in San Rafael, and EBX actually enjoys fake meat at Nature Vegetarian Restaurant.