Kauffman Reviews Deaf-Owner Mozzeria, Chron's Onto Bouche

Jonathan Kauffman's grand finale review for the SF Weekly is of deaf-owned Mission pizzeria Mozzeria, where the "pizzas are not yet up to the level of Pizzeria Delfina's, say, but they come close...If the crust has a flaw, it's that the dough is a shade too dense, so that the lip doesn't yet develop those high, wild bubbles that give it loft and elegance." All in all, it's a solid neighborhood hang: "Mozzeria is a destination precisely because it's not a destination restaurant. A place where you can drop in with friends and, after spending $25, feel like you've eaten a good meal." [SF Weekly]

Chron files its Thursday review of the diminutive, French Bouche on Bush St., which it gives two stars overall. The star is an "otherworldly" "ceviche-style" sardine dish, but chef Nicolas Borzee's "menu is cryptic, with short descriptions and a seemingly random order." Bauer's other favorite is a marinated salmon in a nest of shredded, baked phyllo, and despite sometimes rocky service and one literal rock in the calamari, "with the windows open to a warm spring breeze and street sounds, I could easily imagine I was in France." [Chron]

Hirschster has a play-by-play of Two Sisters in Hayes Valley, where the food is good enough (and the decor small enough), that he's surprised it's not packed. Chef Alex Smith wins a "You did it!" award for "thoughtful, comforting cuisine," including deviled eggs, a nice mac n' cheese, and "the highlight," a lamb sandwich with "bright" mint-shallot salsa on a Thorough Bread baguette. [Examiner]

L'Unterman ventures to Source on the recommendation of her most trusted vegetarian friend, and is shocked to find the burger is "simply one of the best I’ve tasted–even on a pita bread." Even more surprising, it's made of "beets, the source of the color, celery, carrots, lentils, mushrooms, brown rice, fresh herbs, soy protein, garlic and onions." She'll be back. [Unterman on Food]

THE ELSEWHERE: EBX isn't overly impressed by Xolo taqueria, Marin IJ finds "a bit of soul" at Beth's in Mill Valley, and The Merc has a roundup of brunch around the East Bay.

[Photo: Juli B.]