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Critics Beat Down Bistro Jeanty, Bottle Cap, Dobb's Ferry

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Damn. After three years spent wearing its one star review like a scarlet letter, Bistro Jeanty is finally graced with a Bauer revisit, but their Overall score is only upped half a point, to 1.5 stars. Why? Because Bauer wanted more dressing on a salad, less on another, there's some "soggy" puff pastry involved, and—all told—Philippe Jeanty's menu staples haven't evolved at all: "It might be fine if these classics were perfectly executed, but it seems that the kitchen is still coasting along." [Chron]

Meanwhile SF Weekly's Alex Hochman doesn't think the food or the clientele at Bottle Cap are too hot: "Chef and owner Dayne Boryta's menu reads like a description of his restaurant's patrons: Some are classic, some are relics of the '90s, and a few are trying to fit in with modern times." With chipotle chicken, tuna poke, and shrimp Louie all on one menu, "Bottle Cap's eclecticism borders on zany." But some things: the pierogies, the butterscotch pudding and the aforementioned tuna poke are actually worth ordering. [SF Weekly]

Despite "the best version of chicken scarpariello you may ever encounter," Jesse Hirsch is largely underwhelmed by Dobb's Ferry in Hayes Valley: "It’s a purveyor of unimaginative mid-range ($16-$28) American food with light California influences. And the neutral space itself says little more than “I am a restaurant.” Ho-hum...With so many nearby places to eat, Dobbs Ferry’s most appealing attribute is its open tables." Ouch. [Examiner]

Patricia Unterman is the only one that has nice things to say today, raving on about the cold soba at Nojo: "A tangle of thin, toothsome soba noodles was tossed with nutty mung bean sprouts, torn shreds of ice berg lettuce, and a tart, citrusy, smoky, dressing punched up with kansuri–fermented chile." She's going back tonight for the Japanese fried chicken. [Unterman on Food]

THE ELSEWHERE: The second Thursday Chron review two stars Lyfe Kitchen in Palo Alto, EBX has "food like your Afghan grandma would make" at Kamdesh Afghan Kabab House in Oakland, and the Marin IJ has a "lip-smaking" good time at Casa Mañana in San Rafael.

Bottle Cap

2403 12th Avenue South, , TN 37204 (615) 915-0732 Visit Website

Bistro Jeanty

6510 Washington Street Yountville, CA

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