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Hirsch Likes "Nothing But a Sloppy Vegetarian Whore" at Red Door, SF Weekly On Chubby Noodle Ramen, More

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A typical weekend line at Red Door Cafe.
A typical weekend line at Red Door Cafe.
Photo: Yelp/Dave K.

The Examiner's Jesse Hirsch endures a three-hour-brunch at Red Door Cafe, where he's equally, and sort-of-delightfully exhausted by the "sassy, saucy" owner A.D. who "looks like an escapee from a 1970s roller-rink flick," and "over-the-top" dishes. See Roll My Cuban: "[a] heavy-handed affair...thick with egg, ham, bacon, bean and cheese...punctured with tropical umbrellas and foot-high fruit skewers." Thankfully, "fluffy, light" French toast, and I’m Nothing But a Sloppy Vegetarian Whore, a "fiery" sloppy joe hash on sweet Hawaiian buns are good enough that A.D. gets a kiss on the way out.

SF Weekly interim reviewer Alex Hochman reviews a bunch of "kitchens inside established bars." At Amante's Chubby Noodle ("not a pop-up"), he likes the ramen, Korean pork tacos, and buttermilk-brined chicken wings best. Across town at The Galley inside Clooney's in the Mission, all the sandwiches excel in some way: French onion, grilled cheese and peanut butter and jelly made with fresh-ground nuts. He licks the plate of store-bought sauce from his baby back ribs, noting "if décor is at all of importance, neither of these places is for you," but theri "inimitability, along with some pretty remarkable, distinct food, is part of their grand allure." [SF Weekly]

SFBG's Virginia Miller has two new menu-less bars for you to try. The Bon Vivant's Rio Grande, "a South of the Border cantina," has an Old Fashioned on tap, soon to be replaced by something called the Del Rio. And at the tiny new SoMa bar, Big, drinks don't have names, but a "radiant" cocktail with beet juice, Hirsch corn whiskey, habanero shrub and paprika gives an idea of what to expect.

Bauer returns to an old favorite Underwood Bar & Bistro in western Sonoma County: "It's thoroughly charming, and the bustling interior gives you the sense that the food is going to be good." He wishes the Korean beef barbecue was served in stronger lettuce cups, and the smoked trout is a little intense for him, still it's a "valiant effort," desserts are "a highlight," and it all nets out to 2.5 stars overall.

THE ELSEWHERE: The second Chron review has two stars for Lokanta, a new Turkish spot in Pleasanton, EBX finds the scenery is better than the food at The Terrace Room on the first floor of the Lake Merritt Hotel, Marin IJ digs into healthy homemade fare at San Rafael's Cafe du Cirque, and The Merc has two stars for Fremont's "popular" De Afghanan.

Red Door Cafe

1608 Bush Street, San Francisco, California 94109 415 441 1564

Red Door Cafe

1608 Bush Street, San Francisco, CA

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