With Michael Bauer off on a chic Parisian vacation, San Francisco's alt-weeklies get this week's main focus.
Longtime SF Weekly pinch hitter Matthew Stafford returns to file a review on Troya Fillmore, the newest location of the eastern Mediterranean restaurant Troya in the Richmond District. He finds that the ancient cuisine is given a "West Coast tarting-up treatment," and in some cases he finds the results to be "invigorating." Further elaboration on tarting-up: "The concept didn't really take off until this millennium, when Southern restaurants started stirring nasturtium butter into their grits, and the unwary pizza-lover occasionally discovered seared purple basil amid the mozzarella and anchovies." [SFW]
Virginia Miller of San Francisco Bay Guardian puts gas in the car to traverse the Bay Area for a survey of summer bites. At best, she finds "genius" in the smoked brisket meatloaf that new Pican chef Sophina Uong has created and a green chile biscuit with fried chicken at 15 Romolo makes her "salivate." Of the latter, she writes, "I practically rolled out post-meal, blissfully fattened." [SFBG]
THE ELSEWHERE: Marin IJ makes room for Second Breakfast in Mill Valley, the Merc checks out the views at Bella Vista near Woodside, and East Bay Express is feeling the food and prices at Fusebox, a Korean-Japanese spot in West Oakland.