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French%20Blue%20Chron%20Review.jpgWine Country Bauer drops twin stars for French Blue, the first restaurant project from Howard and Lori Backen: "French Blue reminds me of a beautiful model who grabs attention, but doesn't have much substance." Chef Philip Wang makes a great grass-fed hangar steak, but the restaurant's "gaggle of partners...might help explain why the restaurant seems unfocused and ultimately unsatisfying." [Chron]

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