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Week in Reviews

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Examiner critic Jesse Hirsch seeks to erase his vermin-infested memories of defunct Tu Lan with a visit to the squeaky clean Kim Son in the Outer Richmond. Mirroring its "mellow" vibe, most dishes are mild, save for the "trophy dish" of com tam suon bi cha (#25): "At its core sat a mound of broken rice, that nutty, scallion-infused peasant staple. Ringing the rice was an awesomely tender grilled pork chop, a heap of shredded pork and pork skin, and a custardlike egg patty studded with pork, crab and black mushrooms...For true excess, fork over a few more bucks to get this same dish with add-ons..." [Examiner]