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Week in Reviews

At Plaj now, Bauer thinks Stockholm native/chef Roberth Sundell weaves Scandinavian and Californian flavors to great result. The remodel "feels relaxed and genteel," and the Swedish meatballs "rise above the cliche." He decides "the food feels like Christmas, regardless of the month." The touch, the feel of Christmas: 2.5 jingle bells. [Chron]