In today's review, Michael Bauer takes time to let the sights ("century-old Chicago brick walls"), smells ("garlic overlaid with tomatoes and oregano"), and portion sizes ("that by today's standards would serve two or three") of Capo's whisk him back to the past, awarding them a very solid two and a half stars, with a high-point of three stars for service. This continues the Capo's love-fest started earlier this month by Virginia Miller and Anna Roth.
Bauer appreciates Capo's old-school approach to food, with "classics" like spaghetti and meatballs served with sauce "so thick that it pools on the plate like wet concrete" (which is a good thing, says Mr. Bauer). Other non-pizza standouts included a "surprisingly bold" Caesar salad, "exceptional" clams Casino, and Chicken Vesuvio, "a great dish that hasn't lost its currency."
Unfortunately, currency is where Bauer's poetic waxing takes a pause. At $12 a pop, cocktail prices seem high, and the establishment's cash-only policy can be an issue (although he's quick to point out that "there's an ATM back by the phone booth").
While Bauer was not blown away by the much buzzed-about Quattro Forni, he did find lots to love on the pizza menu, finding all of the pies "expertly made." The "casual but friendly and surprisingly professional" service garnered his highest rating.
Overall, Capo's "captures a time and place worth preserving" and, with Bauer's seal of approval and the rest of the critics' praises, should quickly become a North Beach staple.
· Capo's has old Chicago flavor in S.F. [Chronicle]
· All Capo's Coverage [~ ESF ~]