:format(webp)/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/39018080/Screen_20shot_202013-01-02_20at_209.11.55_20AM.0.png)
EBX warms up to Alice Waters' Cafe Fanny replacement Bartavelle, finding heavy wine pours, servers that "sport tattoos," and "simple" menu items—like "indulgent" porridge—which "rise above." It's "cramped," but the Waters lineage wins out: "recognizably a close relation to...other Chez Panisse-related restaurants' — not inventive or flashy, but well-considered and impeccably, transparently done." [EBX]
