Week in Reviews

Freshly back from vacation, Bauer took on the new Pesce for his Sunday review, and what he found a new space that "lacks the personality and quirky charm of the original." Comparisons between the old and new Pesce were unavoidable, and many dishes lacked that special something, but seafood, like the "really good" cioppino and "excellent" fritto misto, shone. A bargain $23 steak was "pleasantly charred" and the tuscan kale is "a new favorite," but there's still room to grow. "The new Pesce might not be quite as good as the original- at least not yet," he says, "but it's better than any other place that has been in the location over the past decade." 2.5 stars. [Chron]