Week in Reviews

Though La Urbana "is not the place for people who think you should get change back from a $10 bill when you eat Mexican food," Bauer finds "a lot of passion in the cooking and the space," praising the "cutting-edge" interior, "high quality products" in dishes like ensalada verde and pork carnitas, and "well educated" staff. Throw in "one of the largest mezcal collections in the city," and it's a winner: "This is for those who appreciate the complex qualities of [Mexican] cuisine and understand that it's as varied and expressive as French, Italian or Northern Californian." 2.5 stars. [Chron]