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Penrose, A Chic Bar and Grill in Grand Lake

[Photos: Patricia Chang]

The gorgeous specimen pictured above is Penrose, the third restaurant from Charlie Hallowell that's opening tonight in Oakland's Grand Lake. Though Hallowell, a Chez Panisse alum, is known for pizza spots Pizzaiolo and Boot & Shoe Service (the latter of which is just across the street), Penrose is his first pizza-free restaurant. It's largely stove-free as well, focusing on hearth-cooked and raw food in a similar manner to fellow newcomer TBD. Named for Hallowell's Irish great-grandfather (and formerly known as Penrose & Sons), the former nail salon has been delayed significantly since its first announcement in 2012 because Hallowell decided to buy and incorporate the next-door cafe as well.

Miles Schaefer, an alum of Rich Table and NYC's WD-50, is the chef, with a menu emphasizing fare from local farms and purveyors (it's divided into sections for meat, fish, vegetables, and flatbreads). Dishes include a grilled bone-in ribeye with chimichurri, lamb kebabs, and roasted brussels sprouts. A raw bar is also a big component, with crudos and local oysters; there are also some raw meat dishes like lamb tartare and beef carpaccio.

On the drinks side, Pizzaiolo alum Cate Whalen is doing double duty as both bar manager and GM, with a full cocktail menu and good-sized back bar. The stunning 60-seat dining room features raw brick walls and a beautiful glass installation fanning over the open kitchen, while a 20-seat bar boasts built-in lamps and a wood mobile installation. Hours are Thursday-Monday, 5 pm-12 am.

Update, 2/24/14: Penrose has changed its hours to Monday-Saturday, 5:30pm-10:30pm; the bar is open until 11 on weekdays and 11:30 on the weekend.

· Penrose Getting Close in Oakland [~ ESF ~]
· Charlie Hallowell Opening a New Spot with No Pizza [~ ESF ~]
· Penrose [Official website]


3311 Grand Ave., Oakland, CA 94610 (510) 444-1649 Visit Website