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After slamming Real Restaurants' last revamp of an old-school spot in the Betelnut-Hutong debacle, it wasn't a sure thing that Bauer would fall for a revamp of Fog City. But he thinks "this time, they've found the right formula," citing "superb" apple pie and a roast chicken that "rivals the Zuni Cafe version," even if "too many ingredients are repeated from dish to dish." Overall, he appreciates the "renewed vigor" of the place: "May it live another 28 years." 2.5 stars. [Chron]
