Week in Reviews

While some elements of Bouli Bar "seem makeshift, especially for a new space," Bauer remains taken with Amaryll Schwertner and Lori Regis' spinoff of their popular Boulettes Larder, praising the "innate lightness" of dishes like "enticing" cannoli and "meticulously crafted" chicken legs braised in cream. But despite chef Schwertner's "immense talent," "amateurish" service is a mess: "On every visit, we were frustrated with timing issues. Plus, the staff doesn't seem to know what to do or how to properly service tables...it keeps Bouli Bar from achieving its full potential." Two stars, and 2.5 for food. [Chron]