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Señor Bauer cha-chaed over the bridge to Oakland's Duende, where he became critical bachelor #4 to be swept off his feet by chef Paul Canales. "Excellent" paella, "soulful, rustic" duck fideua, and a "creamy wonder" of a flan all hit high notes, and while "some dishes lack bright, fresh notes," the overall effect is of "a place that has already found its groove." Rating: two and a half estrellas. [Chron]
