Week in Reviews

The Bauer Review Club's latest stop was onetime pop-up Hillside Supper Club in the former Caffe Cozzolino in Bernal Heights, which he found a little wobbly: "The transition from pop-up to permanent is not without challenges. When I ate at the pop-up, I was charmed by what [the chefs] did. However, on my three most recent visits to the restaurant, I was surprised by the inconsistencies." Standout dishes were celery-root soup, meatballs, seared sturgeon and duck liver mousse, enough to earn the duo of Tony Ferrari and Jonathan Sutton two stars. [Chron]