Week in Reviews

While Patricia Unterman found lots to like about Hi-Lo BBQ, Michael Bauer wasn't nearly as pleased. The standard barbeque trappings were all good: "excellent" spare ribs and brisket, an "appropriately messy" meatloaf sandwich, and a tasty pulled-pork sandwich. But he balked at the jerk chicken, salads, and particularly the gumbo, a "travesty" he refused to eat more than two bites of. Add the "illogical" blend of counter ordering and table service and the indifferent staff, and Hi-Lo ends up as "a pretty shell without much soul," earning two stars and 1.5 for food. [Chron]