Week in Reviews

With Betelnut a consistent player in his top 100 list, Michael Bauer's expectations for its revamp as Hutong were high, and the results disappointing. While "[Alexander] Ong's vision has become more focused, for both good and bad," and the price points are much lower, Bauer's irritated by the "obvious and one-dimensional" decor, which he deems "like a Disney theme park," and thinks "the food seems earthier, but subtle flavors don't find a place on the new menu." Highlights include the oxtail hot pot and the portobello skewers, but dishes "have a certain sameness and come across as one-dimensional as the interior...it seems like a back-alley version of a formerly street-smart restaurant." Final verdict: two stars. [Chron]