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Two Stars For Citizen's Band; Kauffman Likes 20 Spot

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The wall of postcards at Citizen's Band. [Photo: dizzylizzie/Flickr]

With the Bauer Bus pulled into the Top 100 station for the moment, Allen Matthews takes over this week's review with a trip to Citizen's Band in SOMA, and while the joys of dining in a "hipster restaurant" that shares a bathroom with a nightclub and a street with the occasional homeless wanderer are lost on him, he's pleased with the "gem" of a tomato soup, the "smashing" burger, which is "now one of [his] favorites," and the "standout" New York steak. A few dishes are "submarined by too many ingredients," but overall, it's a spot that's "more complex" than its "fine diner" name might suggest. In grand Bauer tradition, he hands it two stars. [Chron]

Jonathan Kauffman is also on the hipster beat at the Mission's new 20 Spot, where chef Anthony Paone ("whose food at Berkeley's Sea Salt long impressed") is rising to the challenge of cooking with only "an immersion circulator, a toaster oven and an induction burner, which he can't even use during service." But the results are "some of the most elaborate bar snacks [he's] ever seen," including a "satiny" deviled duck egg and "no-brainer" cheese plate. "You might almost forget what's in your glass," he says, awarding it the "notable" rating of one star out of three. [Tasting Table]

Anna Roth perfectly summarized her entire review of Padrecito in its first paragraph, which we'll just leave here: "The new brother restaurant of the Marina's Mamacita...highlights seasonal variations of Mexican food in a dressed-up atmosphere. Is it 'authentic?' Who cares, or even knows what that means anymore? The food's a fun romp through the regions of the country to the south, made with local meat and produce, and complemented by interesting cocktails. Most importantly, the restaurant's stylish remodel and menu tone fit perfectly with its Cole Valley neighborhood, making the cozy spot seemingly guaranteed for success long after the opening buzz wears off." [SF Weekly]

The final reviewer to make her debut in the new Examiner quartet is Molly Gore, who heads to SOMA's Supper Club for dinner in bed. Despite the "clubby and surreal look you might get if David Lynch were let loose to direct an ad for Virgin America," Gore enjoyed a "beautifully cooked" lamb entree and the "taste of home" in a red-pepper puree, to say nothing of the "giddy" one-man food fight provided as the entertainment. "The food was hit or miss. The important thing about Supper Club is that it reminds us that humans ought to play." [Examiner]

Finally, Luke Tsai is kicking off the summer weather with trips to two new East Bay BBQ joints, Genny's BBQ and Smoke Berkeley. "Both serve better-than-decent 'cue, but it's the side dishes that will keep me coming back," he says, noting the "tender" collard greens and red beans and rice that "are some of the best [he's] had" at Genny's, which also serves up "excellent" sweet potato pie and "moist" cornbread. Smoke's brisket, meanwhile, is "well worth ordering," and a "delicious" tea-smoked salmon is a pleasant surprise. But he's most enthralled by the mac and cheese and the Texas-style baked beans, which he's "still dreaming about...[they're] worth a trip on their own." [EBX]


901 Cole Street, San Francisco, Ca 94117 415 742 5505 Visit Website

Citizen's Band

1198 Folsom Street, San Francisco, CA 94103 (415) 556-4901

20 Spot

3565 20th St., San Francisco, CA 94110 415-624-3140

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