Blame it on Bauer, perhaps, but Hi Lo BBQ owner Scott Youkilis has just announced a chef change at the four-month-old restaurant. Former Broken Record guy Ryan Ostler is taking his leave and in his place will be Hog & Rocks executive chef Robin Song, who'll now be overseeing both kitchens. Youkilis tells the Chronicle that the decision "brings both restaurants closer together," and will make Hi Lo more of an extension of its sister restaurant across the street. Also of note: Youkilis is abandoning the counter-service thing, and the restaurant will become full-service starting next week. [Update: Youkilis tells the Scoop that that change is being put off until June 24.]
The reception for the food at Hi Lo has been generally good, with Patricia Unterman giving it the biggest rave, however Michael Bauer was notably disappointed in the place, calling Ostler's gumbo "a travesty," his ribs and brisket inconsistent, and concluding that the place was "a pretty shell without much soul." We can now expect an update review after Song settles in and rejiggers the menu.