Week in Reviews

The dual personalities of Mason Pacific (part bar, part swanky dining room) have made it popular with wealthy society types and hip young'uns alike, but Bauer finds the double act incongruous: "It can work as a kind of mix-and-match menu, but over three visits I found inconsistencies." The burger's pretzel bun is "difficult to eat," desserts are "forgettable," and he "couldn't quite understand" the potato skins: "Give me fries or roasted potatoes." Winners include the "generous" fried chicken and "standout" rillettes. "I appreciate the risks taken at Mason Pacific as it boldly attempts to hit all levels of diners, but the food needs consistency and the staff must achieve more polish." Two stars. [Chron]