Week in Reviews

Though he still has no love for the bare-bones atmosphere of Manny Torres Gimenez's restaurants, Bauer remains all about his food: the $50 prix-fixe at The Palace is "the deal of the year," he writes, citing the "stylized but never overworked" small plates like oysters with four kinds of caviar, "excellent and juicy" steak, and dulce de leche souffle. "Each time I've had his food, it's gotten better. The restaurant isn't for those who want surroundings and service that equal the caliber of the food...Yet for Gimenez, the Palace is definitely another step up. I can't wait to see his next one." [Chron]